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The Southern Winter Survival Guide: A Conversation with Aly, Director of Warranty Services

The Southern Winter Survival Guide Infographic

TLDR; Winterizing Southern homes focuses on protecting plumbing by disconnecting hoses and dripping faucets during freezes, alongside testing heating systems by late August to avoid emergency service delays. Homeowners should also inspect window silicone and roof shingles annually to prevent costly leaks during the rainy winter months.


In Georgia and South Carolina, the transition into winter isn't marked by the first snowfall, but by that sudden, bone-chilling "cold snap" that catches everyone off guard. To find out how homeowners can protect their biggest investment, I sat down for an on-the-record interview with Aly, the Director of Warranty Services.

While the title on her business card might be new, her expertise in Southern home maintenance is deep-rooted. We discussed why you should ditch the expensive air filters, why "waiting it out" is a valid strategy for frozen pipes, and why the best time to think about winter is actually in October.

Interviewer: To start, let’s clear up a misconception. How does winterizing a home in the South differ from what people do in the North?

Aly: It’s a lot different. In colder parts of the country, you’re blowing out your sprinkler systems to prevent them from bursting. Here, you don’t need to do that because our sprinklers don’t leave water in the system the same way; they are pressurized differently. We aren't necessarily preparing for feet of snow; instead, we’re focused on the heat and the plumbing.

The biggest mistake people make is leaving their hoses connected to the hose bib. That’s how things freeze and break. A hose bib cover is only about $4, and it’s one of the best investments you can make.

Interviewer: When the temperature drops, when should a homeowner actually start to worry about their pipes freezing?

Aly: Out of caution, we say 32 degrees. However, we don't usually see pipes actually freeze until it hits about 25 degrees or below. The wild card is the wind. If it’s 32 degrees but really windy, that wind can cause things to freeze that wouldn't normally.

If you’re worried, drip your hot water line—and I mean a drip, not a flow. If the water is coming out in a steady "laminar flow," it can actually still freeze solid. You want a literal drip to keep the PEX piping moving.

Interviewer: A lot of modern Southern homes use tankless water heaters. Is there a specific protocol for those?

Aly: Yes, and it’s important. Because tankless units are often on the outside, the lines go up into the attic and across the house. You should drip the hot water line furthest from the heater to keep that water moving.

Most importantly: Do not unplug your tankless unit when it’s cold. These units have internal defrosters. If you unplug it and it hasn't been drained properly, the components can freeze and crack, and you might have to replace the whole unit.

Interviewer: If the worst happens and a homeowner suspects a pipe is already frozen, what’s the next step?

Aly: It depends on where it is. If it's the PEX [interviewer note: PEX is the type of pipe used in Bill Beazley Homes water systems] line going from a tankless unit into the attic, you can try using a hair dryer to thaw it. But honestly, because most of our homes use PEX rather than copper, "waiting" is a real option. Copper bursts when it freezes, but PEX can expand. Usually, it will eventually just unfreeze on its own without damage.

Interviewer: Moving to the heart of the home—the HVAC. How often should we really be servicing these units?

Aly: HVAC companies will tell you twice a year, but I recommend at least once. My big rule is: Use the heat before you think you need it. Don’t wait for the first freezing night to turn it on, because if it doesn't work, you’ll be number 50 in line for a service call at 3:00 AM, and you’re going to get hit with emergency upcharges.

As for filters, buy the cheapest ones you can find. Think of a filter like a mask on your face—the thicker it is, the harder the system has to work to "breathe".

Interviewer: What should homeowners be looking for on the exterior of the house?

Aly: Check your roof yearly, especially since we have intense storms during hurricane season right before winter hits. Look for lifted shingles or sealant on the "boots" that needs to be touched up.

If you have a brick or stone house, check the silicone around your windows yearly. Over time, that silicone cracks, and it can cause a leak on the inside. It’s a simple DIY task—you can take a tube of silicone and do it yourself. It might not be the prettiest job, but it prevents a very expensive leak.

Interviewer: Any other "hidden" tips that people often overlook?

Aly: A few easy ones:
Reverse your ceiling fans. It helps push the warm air back down.[interviewer note: make sure the fan is set to clockwise rotation]  
Check the attic. Blown-in insulation can compress over time. Look at the measuring tapes in your attic; if the insulation has settled, you may need to "touch up" the blow to keep your home energy-efficient.
Gas Fireplaces: If you haven't used it in a while, it might set off your smoke alarm or smell like burning dust the first time you turn it on. Just open the windows for a bit while it burns off.

Interviewer: If someone is on a tight budget and only has one afternoon to prepare, what are your "Big Three"?

Aly: First, do a walk-around. Inspect your roof, gutters, and windows. Second, after any major storm, do a "sweep" of your house and look at the ceilings for any signs of active leaks. Third, turn on your heat now to make sure it works so you aren't on someone's "back burner" when the cold snap hits.

Personally, I start my prep at the end of September. I want to identify issues before they become expensive emergencies.


Ultimately, winterizing a home in Georgia and South Carolina isn't about bracing for a blizzard; it’s about being proactive so you aren't caught off guard by a sudden, volatile freeze. As Aly, the Director of Warranty Services, pointed out, the goal of these yearly checks is to identify and fix minor issues—like a cracked window seal or a disconnected hose—before they transform into expensive, high-stress emergencies.

Whether you’re climbing a ladder for a quick roof inspection, applying a fresh bead of silicone to your windows, or simply flipping the switch on your ceiling fans to reverse their flow, these small steps are the key to protecting your investment. The most important takeaway? Don't wait until the first frost to find out your heater isn't working. By starting your maintenance in October or September, you ensure your home stays a sanctuary all winter long and that you never end up as "number 50 in line" for an emergency service call.

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